Dark Window

Go / no go for deep sky

Histogram guide for astrophotography

The picture on the back of your camera lies in the dark. The histogram doesn’t. It’s the quickest way to tell whether a night-sky frame is exposed well, before you spend an hour collecting more of them.

Reading it

// Try it: change the exposure

common targetshadowsmidtoneshighlights

Dark. This can work from a very dark site with many short frames, but you're giving up signal.

Illustration only. Your own numbers depend on your sky, lens, ISO and target.

Good and bad histograms

Six typical shapes, with what each one means and what to change.

Good habits

Questions

Where should the histogram peak be for astrophotography?
A common rule of thumb is to put the main hump roughly a quarter to a third of the way in from the left, clear of the left edge. Under very dark skies you can sit a little lower, and in light-polluted skies the hump will sit further right whatever you do.
Should the histogram touch the left side?
Not if you can help it. A hump that touches or climbs the left edge means the faintest detail is being clipped to black. Raising the exposure slightly moves it away.
Why does my histogram look so narrow?
Light pollution and moonlight add a bright, even glow, which makes the sky nearly one brightness. A narrow hump is normal in a bright sky. A filter or a darker site helps.
Does a good histogram mean a good photo?
No. It tells you the exposure is sensible. Focus, tracking, framing and noise still decide how the photo turns out.
What about raw files and the histogram?
Because the preview histogram comes from the JPEG, it can look brighter than the raw data really is. If you shoot raw, some people deliberately expose a touch brighter than they would with JPEG, as long as nothing important clips. Test with your own camera.

Choosing exposure lengths? Try the exposure calculator, or sharpen your focus first.